Excellent product. Terrific prompt service. Good price. First Light provide a brilliant service.

Well, I thought flocking the inside of my 10inch newtonian would be a nightmare, but paints never gave a very good finish. So I got 2 rolls of this stuff from FLO, and I must say it was easy to fit - I could lift it up and move it around in the tube, press out the air bubbles with the edge of a 12 inch ruler and got to my eye a good fit. The adhesion is superb (I do not know if it cures with time - but it seems like it) and looking down the tube it is a flatter black than the inside of a very old chimney. Superb product - and I will do the same with any other newtonian I get. Top marks FLO!

I found the flock material very easy to apply to my 130 Astromaster and the adhesive backing worked very well. Unable to comment on contrast improvements as no clear nights.

This paper did a great job on the baffle reflections in my Celestron C90.

I made a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPFZbqbjbP0

Excellent product - sticky enough to grab a carbon fibre tube but easy to reposition until you get it just right - then smooth down and after 20 mins its really stuck down well. Quality product - doesn't stretch or shed fibres. See the difference it makes here - https://www.flickr.com/photos/113316085@N05/34754697434/in/album-72157663274320360/

I bought 3 rolls for my Meade SN10, but only used 2 – I removed everything from the tube & cleaned it with 50/50 IPA & water – I decided to be daring and do it in 2 – the 1st complete role I aligned the 1M edge to the front of the tube and went around – I cocked up a little; after going all the way around there was a ½” gap at the front, however, it went on smooth, with no bumps – The 2nd piece I removed about 2.5 from the long edge – overlapped it slightly with the first piece, and again went around the tube – I got a crease in that one, but was able to remove and reapply (3 times) without destroying anything - that one, eventually, was totally square to the tube, also with no bumps; then finally: the strip I cut from the 2nd piece I used to tidy up the front edge (the gap), and put some around the opening of the focuser – once complete the cat decided to hide inside the tube and coated it with her fur !!!! – managed to removed them all in minutes with one of those sticky lint roller thingies ! – Very Happy with the Result !!!
(note/hint: to make the roll workable roll it “felt side in” around a broom handle several times until it stops curling up on itself)

I bought this material to flock my 12" Orion optics telescope, the difference is so obvious and the quality is extremely good, highly recommend indeed.
First light optics gives an excellent service.

I used two rolls (from FLO) to partially flock my 12" Skywatcher 300 PDS. I knew I'd have some bare sections so I painted out with blackboard paint from a local DIY shop first. The flocking was enough to cover all light paths around the focuser and primary. It does leave a section of bare tube about 60cm long in the centre but looking through the focuser this is not visible. There are measuring guides on the paper side so it is easy to cut into strips to line the tube, there is also a shortish cure time so you have maybe 10 minutes to reposition a section if needed. My tube has gone from Skywatcher Dark Grey to a solid black.

In terms of contrast even in my light polluted garden there is marked difference in reflected and unwanted light both visually and photographically. However, even with my monster OTA I still have to use a light shield to keep out strong direct LP from neighbour's bathrooms and a local lamp post, but even without this the flocking does a much better good job of reducing reflected light than the standard finish. At dark sites where I don't use the light shield there is a slight but still observable difference in contrast making DSOs and fainter stars more visible.

I bought one roll of this for use on my 10" f4.7 Skywatcher (from a high street shop, but the same brand) and was able to flock the top 5" of the tube on the side opposite the focuser, the bottom 5" of the tube all the way around the primary, and the interior of the focuser drawtube without issues. I'm of the school of thought that that's all you need to do (plus blackboard paint on the edge of the secondary facing the focuser). There is a huge difference between the view through the focuser now and how it came from the manufacturer, for very little expense. It was also much less hassle removing and replacing the mirrors than I had anticipated.

I second the points above regarding cutting into premeasured sections and the ability to remove and reposition within a few seconds after sticking. It's also worth mentioning that the backing is handily printed with a 2cm grid, so you can judge amounts and cut straight more easily. The material itself is rubbery underneath the flocking and will accommodate a slight amount of stretching and squashing. It's about a millimetre thick and can be easily cut with scissors.

Tom

I recently bought 3 rolls of Black Velour Flocking Material (45cm x 1m) so that I could flock my 14" Flextube GOTO.

The material is certainly matt black and the backing plastic comes off easily, leaving one with a matt velour on one side and a sticky plastic finish on the other.

I quickly found that trying to manipulate a full roll inside a 14" Newt tube wasn't a good idea, so cut it into premeasured sections. This made application much easier.

The flocking material sticks well to the inside of the OTA, but if removed within a few seconds of applying it peels off easily and can be reapplied. So it is relatively easy for someone ham-fisted like me to make a neat job of flocking the inside of the main tube.

15 mins after sticking down it appears stuck fast to the inside of the OTA.

The effect on the inside of the tube is to turn it from dark grey to matt black - which should improve the contrast markedly.

Tom